I was
planning to write my coming post about mules as mentioned in some previous
posts. Recently I read many interesting articles at this regard. I then decided
to focus my attention on one of the very trending topics in Footwear business
which is increasing my curiosity about: 3D printing shoes. I’m sure this post
will grow up your interest in new developments of footwear industry. I
apologize in advance for its necessary length.
Before going
deep on the “hot topic” of this post, I would like to have a look at how traditionally
shoe factories work. You can find many articles, posts and videos about this
topic. Obviously I made the whole process quite easier than what’s in reality
in order to facilitate understanding.
1. STEP: DESIGN
As everything to
plan, the very first phase is to “invent” something. Shoe designers put their
idea on a paper. I love this step meaning the creativity of these artists and
the very birth of a shoe. I remember when I had the chance to go into a shoe design
office: all those shoe draftings on the walls, those desks with pens and
pencils, samples, etc. It was like being in the brain of the factory itself.
2. STEP: PROTOTYPE
Once bosses
approved the project drawn by the shoe designer and before starting producing
thousands and thousands of that shoe, the drawing passes to the production unit
aimed to make a Prototype. Here, artisans use their equipment and knowledge together
with proper machines which nowadays have made their work easier. However, the very first tool is a shoe-custom
last from wood or plastic. Artisans use it to model leather and other materials
to make shoes. In a shoe factory you may find billion of these shoe-customs
according to volume of production, sizes, heel-weights, genre models. Once
artisans made the prototype both by their own hands and some machine help, this
item has to pass over the new approval by bosses and designers before starting
the subsequent phase.
3. STEP: PRODUCTION
3. STEP: PRODUCTION
Let’s assume
Prototype has been approved. Now it’s time to produce thousands of it to put in
the market (meaning, first, figuring new runways and events out where to
promote it). In this step machines support artisans in their daily work to
increase production, quality and efficiency. I called this phase as “executive”
due to the workings among colors, materials, men and machines, customs, heels, and
further details.
Consider how
crucial are every of these steps, particularly in terms of profit, work,
intellectual property, production amounts, therefore costs and investments.
What 3D machines “rub out” regards the third step (perhaps the second one, as
well). This means rubbing out the related costs. Anyhow, how do 3D
shoe-machines work?
Basically, a 3D printing machine allows to
create a 3D model with a CAD program, then a printable file is used to create a
layer design which is printed afterwards. This machine build things “by depositing
material, typically plastic or metal, layer by layer, until the prototype or
final product is finished” (wired.com).
This new technology seems matching with new
consumers’ preferences. Shoes are tailored for each person’s unique feet.
Particularly for wide or thick feet is hard to find a suitable pair of shoes,
due to the common sizing system is based on half-integer measurements (6, 6.5,
7, 7.5, etc.). 3D Printing solves all this. Instead of trying many pair of
shoes box by box this technology allows the computer to “create an accurate 3D
model of the person’s feet”. This information combined with further costumer’s
details, such as weight, height, activities which the shoes is engaged for.
After inputting all these data, the costumer must just wait for printing.
An increasing number of footwear companies is now using 3D printing
technology (above all, Nike, Feetz, United Nude, Adidas, New Balance and Under
Armour) to give customers their very personalized pair of shoes, made in store
or on the spot. Early this new
technology was used just for rapid prototyping (wired.com).
In the last twenty years the rapid advances
of the so called “3Digital Accelerators” (processing power, storage and
bandwidth) has developed this 3D printing as “a tool for manufacturing
end-products, such as shoes, jewelry, and dresses (within fashion business). As
seen above this technology can be particularly useful for therapeutic
applications. This is the case, for example, of SOLS Systems which makes
orthotic shoes to alleviate foot pain and improve comfort for customers. Additionally,
Nike has introduced its new Nike Vapor Ultimate Cleat American football boot,
which combines 3D knitting and 3D shoe printing to give players an athletic
shoe that delivers both lightweight speed and strength.
Although the majority
of shoes sold nowadays are traditionally-made, the 3D technology is globally
advancing quickly on the international market according to its “add values”:
“On-demand, anytime, anywhere, by anyone manufacturing.” (wired.com)
As for any innovation even for 3D printing there
are already some objections. Some experts in footwear production in confirming the advantages by this tech as
above listed use btw the cellphone metaphore to describe this new tech: “the
2016’s designs are similar to brick cellphone of yesteryear which was laborious
and cucumbersome.”(highsnobiety.com).
An example of very receptive shoe designer, the
Italian Cristina Fraceschini, who soon became a Shapeways designer. Her
peculiarity is the almost-sculpture heel as an intricate 3D printed nylon
cover, combining metallic finish onto a plastic through high product pressure.
(3DPrintingIndustry.com). Another advantage highlighted by this female
shoe-designers by Fermo (Italy) regards the production amount: with 3D printing
it’s possible to produce even one unique shoe – which was impossible in the
past. An immediate result of this open-mindness by Cristina is that a lot of
her shoes are exhibited in the contemporary section of Fermo’s Footwear
Museum).
This enthusiastic shoe designer
declared: “I love playing and experimenting with materials and I believe that
the Italian shoe industry needs to get on board and explore with next
generation designs. It is time to take Italian shoe making traditions and creativity
into the future of manufacturing.”
The 3D printing has been just discovered. We can
already note its pros and cons. Of course it will arise new issues, above all about
the future of the traditional footwear market as well as new levels of intellectual
property rights protection. My opinion is that we have still to discover a lot
about 3D printing. Although traditional factories must be preserved we could
deeply know and use potential advantages related to a balance between tradition
and innovation in footwear production. The example of Cristina Franceschini may
contribute in this direction.
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