Do you remember Carrie Bradshaw? The women' s hero fighting in love with Mr.Big? Well, it seems this character never leaves one of my favourite actresses I met for the first time in Hocus Pocus movie: Sarah Jessica Parker.
We admired her "metamorphosis" from that always-glamorous dark pointy hat side by side with her witch-sisters played by Bette Midler and Kathy Najimy to her daily fashion outfits on Sex and The City set. It seems the shoe love she showed by the amazing Carrie was true!
Rumors speak about a Fall Winter 2017 Capsule Collection (Amazon exclusivity) in footwear. This new line ofc branded with the full name of this actress regards shoes and boots with heels....dear Sex-And-The-City fans, get it?
When I read this for the first time I immediately thought about that blue Carrie's Manolo...that Hangisi pumps.
Pin as follows: I discovered this evergreen-item-in-the-whole-female-genre-wishlist will be updated with a lace version by the wonderful Manolo Blahnìk himself soon (further details here: Updated Hangisi).
Well, the SJP' s collection will include something similar: the Fawn decolletè (in the pic) available in three blue tones (Dash, Flirt and Wink) - to Amazon's delight.
To be honest this brand has been founded by the actress since 2014. Last March SJP launched a made-in-US bag collection. Thanks to this collaboration with Amazon Fashion (fully made in Italy) this brand will burst into the European market.
Sarah, better known by female fans as Carrie, remarks her choice to invest in high quality footwear leading her to start producing her shoes in Tuscany, Italy, by third-generation hand-crafts (category aka artists to me). Ofc this means also medium-high prices (from EUR 170 to 500) .
In the homepage of the above mentioned website you can easily stop on a sentence well summing up Sarah's concept of her shoe collection:
"Created with a Commitment to Quality, the Single sole and using color as a Neutral"
Meanwhile we're now excited in waiting for the Capsule Collection feat. Amazon Fashion, the Pre-Fall 17 footwear collection of the brand is already available in said website. Many trending colors, shapes, heels among which you can choose a new pair of shoes to start a new office outfit after your summer holidays in perfect Carrie's style!
...Does SJP let any woman feel like Carrie just for one day?
Hei man, do you think your wife/ girlfriend/daughter spend lots of money to buy one pair of shoes? Well, I'm almost to shock you.
Since last Tuesday the web community has been going crazy for the last "gold" (I'm not using this word by chance) fashion news. Fashion victims, influencers, journalists and business professionals are tweetting on the coming-most-expensive-fashion-acquisition of the year: Michael Kors is buying Jimmy Choo for $1.2 Billion. The global Stock Exchange reacts to the announcement of this acquisition as follows: "shares of Michael Kors edged up 1% in pre-market trading, while shares of Jimmy Choo surged 17% in London" (Forbes).
This deal involves two of the most loved fashion brands by celebrities although they appeal different segments of worldwide population.
MK Holding group is improving its business strategy in combining new shoes with its famous bags so to build a bigger international luxury brand. Its intention to give new pull to the brand justifies its eyes on the fabulous JChoo.
Jimmy Choo, on its side, occupies a higher price range between $425 (Open-toe slip-on sandals) and $3,000 ( crystal-encrusted shoes with the brand’s signature sky-high stilettos). This means different customer targets, ofc, but also hefty profit margins and an upmarket aura. The British brand was put on sale in April and Mr. Kors (here below) wants it!
Mr. Michael Kors himself said:-""We admire the glamorous style and trend-setting nature of Jimmy Choo designs"
Fashion customers traditionally loyal to middle market (finding a balance between style and price) have been satisfied by e-commerce. This have facilitated, on one side, some brands like Amazon, Zara, H&M as well as some top brands such as Gucci. The same exposed some companies, on the other side, such as Michael Kors - "once the runaway leader of the “accessible luxury market”".
Despite the general trend of fashion retailers facing said recent fierce competition by e-commerce, Michael Kors is additionally "in the process of closing 100 to 125 of its standalone stores, renovating another 100-plus stores and doubling down on more innovative designs". (Forbes)
Michael Kors' strategy to build a great American fashion luxury brand seems therefore well matching with the chance by Jimmy Choo.
So far, MK has usually focused on a balance between fashion-forward designs and competitive prices. It invested on outlets and department stores, where deep discounting is common. According to The New York Times Michale Kors needs an update to divert its recent market trend, btw: the one-decade-effects of its charismatic designer and founder ask for new inspirations always based on his motto:
every woman wants to look “pretty and rich.”
The below table shows how the market trend of this brand has languished since 2011. In particular, it downgraded its sale forecasts for the second half of that year so to close "as many as 125 of its full-price retail stores". In 2017 its share price has lost almost a fifth of its value (now $34,91).
Now things seem changing in favour of MK's plans. Proof of this is the recent strange "battle" between these two brands: meanwhile Jimmy Choo was putting in the market its Molly crushed velvet high heel sandals ($875), Michael Kors answered with its Annaliese leather platform sandals ($140)." Since April (time to sale) Jimmy Choo has tried to avoid the Chinese interest on its assets. At this regard Mr. Pierre Danis, its chief executive officer (with previous executive experience non-other-than for LVMH), said as follows:
“I was afraid it would fall into the hands of a Chinese private equity fund with no experience in luxury and I think John Idol is a successful man who has built a great business with Kors, I think there are a lot of synergies — in bags for Jimmy Choo and shoes for Kors.”
The MK Chief Executive, Mr. Idol, is instead focused on increasing the number of acquisitions involving luxury companies "that “lead in style and trend” but also “have got some size and scale” as well as “some heritage.”" All this to reach the above mentioned MK's goal about a big American fashion luxury brand. Particularly, Mr. Idol said:
“Acquiring Jimmy Choo is the beginning of a strategy that we have for building a luxury group that really is focused on international fashion brands,”
This deal then could represent a great opportunity for MK (1) to enter in the high luxury market, (2) to increase sales and (3) to diversify/ improve this decreasing trend.
Terms&Conditions of this deal should set that Jimmy Choo would maintain its current management (including the chief executive Pierre Denis and its Art Director, Sandra Choi). Reason why Company's board of director support this business transaction by promoting this to shareholders. According to the New York Times, behind the Contracting Parties: Goldman Sachs and J.P. Morgan advised Michael Kors, while Bank of America Merrill Lynch and Citigroup advised Jimmy Choo.
MK forecasts are to open new Jimmy Choo stores and expand its fashion offerings (even online) to reach the goal of $1 billion sales/year. This in an overall perspective increasingly investing in e-commerce and social media, by leaving the new entry independent. MK's top management seems sharing JC's business plan so to promote its further implementation. Moreover, the already mentioned MK's plan to get in fashion luxury under US flag seems considering men's footwear, as well. In this view, thanks to this acquisition MK could get in new markets (in Asia, for example, where Jimmy Choo is already playing its role).
What does this mean to other shoemakers?
Other European luxury groups focused instead on long-term strategies to maintain "an illusion of exclusivity", while their US colleagues have been preferring short-term sales despite the luxury reputation.
The MK strategy well reminds to the one of Coach, rather than to LVMH and Kering, which focuses on true luxury brands. In particular, these last two groups are at a more advanced stage of development by already controlling dozens of brands.Who knows if MK Holding group succeeds in such a "fashionable" run-up?!
Recently, I've been fascinated by shoes drawings. Usually Shoe Designers draw the model they've got in mind before starting making prototypes for their production. In the Manolo Blanhìk Exhibition I had chance to personally watch some of MB sketches matching with their prototypes.
In addition to Shoe Designers there is another category of artists focusing on the same subject for portraits. Let me introduce you just three of the most creative ones.
First, Inna Panasenko. This Caucasian multicultural artist based in Germany has got two main topics for her art: bulls as to her objection to Corrida; high heels as inspired to modern feminism and her fashion studies.
Particularly thanks to her academic studies in fashion in Russia the shoe-lovers are quite aware of her talent in drawing Stilettos. By googling this artist you can download a huge variety of postcards, posters, prints, etc. Panasenko's art shows her concept of heels as straightening...
"women up so tremendously, that men become midgets. The lords of creation have no other option but to stand on their tip-toes, unnoticed in the rain."
Her ability to draw high heels while representing a new concept of feminism out from stereotypes where womanliness leads the whole portrait including male characters almost "overwhelmed" by the height of the stiletto. Colors, styles, themes (cocktails, flowers, dance, folks, etc.) make each of her drawings unique in its genre. I think her portraits on this theme show strength, behaviour and femininity.
The very tiny heel fascinates every shoe lover who is wondering about any physics rule balancing such an extremely pencil heel and the toe where men are usually sitting down or standing up, rather than reading a newspaper. Personally, when I admire one of her portraits on Stilettos my question is the following: "If I were that man...." That micro-male character is like a black point in the dizzying Stiletto. He's fascinating me. Is this another reaction Inna Panasenko would like to get from her viewers?
The second artist I want to mention here is Marilyn Robertson. She explained her cats on pumps and bags (called "Catitudes" Collection) as follows:
My much loved feline range, featuring ‘Jasper-the-Cat’ and his friends Thomas, Felix and Sebastian, (the ‘cats with attitude’), have been trademarked as “Catitudes TM”. With the rest of their friends they are found on a growing product range.
Like for Inna Panasenko, many of Robertson's paints have been put in the global market through posters, greeting cards, Ceramic pimpernel, etc.
The very tiny heels as painted in her works remind me to the same shoe concept by Inna Panasenko. "Catitudes" regards beautiful cats laying down on the sole of some dizzying pumps giving a general idea of luxury, class and relax to the whole portrait. Agree?
The third (last but not least) shoe painter I would like to focus on is Michel Tcherevkoff. The peculiarity of his works regards creating female stunning pumps by flowers. He reminds me to the amazing SS2016 Collection by Manolo Blahnìk I had chance to admire during MB Exhibition last Spring. Each part of the flower contributes to the whole shape of the shoe.
His design has been put in practice by Po-Zu, an "ecological footwear brand that naturally invigorates walking feet". The resulting shoe collection (called Shoe Fleur Collection) matches with standards of a "Responsible Shoe Business" according to the construction so-called "Fits-and-Turn", "by which the upper is stitched to the sole and turned inside-out". (shoefleur.com)
The Shoe Fleur Collection is designed for the woman who appreciates fine art as much as she values comfort, the woman who indulges her wildest footwear fantasies without sacrificing her sole.
Some
years ago I thought " Finally, someone got it!". I was referring to the
"nude" concept by the wonderful Christian Louboutin (hereinafter also
CL). His "Nudes" Collection
in 2013 (when it was launched) included up to 5 tones (now 7),
considering all the varieties of skin tones women have got across the
Globe.
In
response to popular demand from women around the world, Christian
Louboutin is pleased to announce an extension of the brand’s innovative
Nudes collection. Originally launched in 2013 with five shades of nude
and four styles, the Spring/Summer 2016 collection sees the spectrum
extended with two new skin-friendly hues, the porcelein Nude #1 and deep
chocolate Nude #7, bringing the current range of colours available to
seven. The expansive collection ensures that every woman can find a nude
perfectly suited to her complexion. (ChristianLouboutin.com)
I loved this effort by him. It returns to my idea of "Responsible Shoe Business" as introduced in my post #1.4.
This Red-Sole collection means respect, inclusion, acceptance,
globalization, civilization, humanity, smartness and (why not?) business
sniff. It's sad to realize racism is still in many "civilized"
Countries all over the world. Perhaps some politicians are increasing
divergences on this topic to feed what I call a "war among poors" just
to get votes - no matter what then on (at least here in EU - but this is
another story...).
Linda Sandino recognized this Red-Sole Collection as one of the "major
moments in history that touch the world of design and manufacturing" (Politics, Crockery and the V&A, L.Sandino, 2014). At the Victoria&Albert Museum in London: in 2014 this CL Collection was exhibited by ceramic hands holding his Nude shoes (see pic here nearby).
To
be honest many (if not all) of the CL tones have been already existing
for years. Initially fashion community referred to PANTONE 12-0911 as
"Nude" (Pantone on Fashion: a Century of Color in Design, Di Pantone, LLC,Leatrice Eiseman,E. P. Cutler). Louboutin' smartness in 2013 focused on branding almost all skin tones
of women worldwide as a new avanguard concept of "nude" in footwear. It
seems to me he's going to make this new concept of nude as the only one
possible from now on. That's great to me!
In
2015 CL upgraded his Collection by extending to 7 the number of skin
tones among which you can choose your best pair of nude shoes. So far,
the lightest one is "Lea" (N.1) while "Ada" (N.7) is the darkest. These
are the last two added in 2016. "Nats", "Maya" and "Safki", above all,
range in between. (Pursuitist.com)
In 2016 Solasofia, a delicated pointed toe ballerina, joined Pigalle Follies 100 and Senora 100 in this Collection.
Let's check out what the Cinderella' Slipper Designer suggests us in this way. Nearby the already mentioned Solasofia flats and Degrarivierina Pumps, in his website the luckiest ones of us can choose among new Summer 2017 sandals, such as:
This
Summer Sandal has got "dazzles with a hint of illusion" by mixing
transparent PVC slingback in a leather nude platform sandal having a
"minimalist silhouette with high impact".
The
innovated item in this stunning Collection is the material: a soft,
flexible, matte nappa leather. The well-thought shades of colors mixed
with these materials give to these shoes the right feeling of nudity.
Mr. Louboutin explains his new collection as follows:
“The shoes are there to give the woman an extra lift, not to take attention away from the legs and what she is wearing.”
"Nude"
is not matter of colors! It regards the woman' silhouette by elongating
her legs. These shades of nude give to female legs versatility,
fluidity and allure of the whole body which this Shoe Designer goes on
inspiring to. Moreover nude means neutral. This leaves women free to
choose the rest of the outfit, including further accessories - not
necessarily matching footwear. It's like a second-skin!
Christian
Louboutin’s Nudes Collection remains the only offering of its kind
within the world of luxury footwear, even three years post-launch.
If
you're already thinking about your fall season at the office, CL have
the right nude pumps for you then! It's the case of Deepik (pic here
above) and Dorissima,
which in 2015 joined the classic Red-sole pumps, above all Pigalle,
Simple Pump and Bianca. Deepik is a scalloped-edge, peep-toe stiletto.
Love its "snake/new wave-heel"! Dorissima stands up as a single-sole,
timeless pump with a heart-shaped toe box and a thin sky-high
heel...perfect for the office! “It’s important to evolve the style and
have fun with it” - CL said about Dorissima.
So Kate Nude, 675$
Another evergreen nude pumps is So Kate Nude (here on
the left): thanks to its ideal heel height as “re-arranged in terms of
toe cleavage,” it resembles the label’s most popular shoe "Pigalle". (Pursuitist.com). In celebration of The Nudes, this is an iconic shoe by CL.
Watch the video here
about the full interview by CNN Lauren Booker to Christian Louboutin
about his Nude Collection. From porcelain (N.1) to dark chocolate (N.7)
the Nude Collection by Christian Louboutin is a flag of inclusivity
challenging "the fashion industry's tendency to cater to paler
complexions" (Debika Ray, 2014).
There are days when I wish to have different heights of heels for my shoes depending on my schedule. Usually women like wearing medium-high block heels in the office, something slower for a friendly walk and something higher for a romantic dinner. What if we have no chance to go back home and change our outfit for a chic night-out after work - at least our shoes? Well, it seems someone took care of us, ladies!
WO 2016179675 is a patent regarding "Women's shoe with detachable high heel, convertible into flat shoes, flat sandals and the like". Isn't this amazing? Basically, Roberto Stiefelmann, its assignee, provides different heights of heels for the same sample sole:
a women's heeled shoe with a shank having a recess for a quickscrew fastener which allows quickly removing and replacing the heel, and which, together with a flexible insole, preferably a PVC moulded insole, and an elastic junction in the quarters or vamp, allows a closed shoe with a heel to be converted into a flat shoe or a sandal-like shoe with a heel to be converted into a flat sandal, for example, or vice versa. The shoe also comprises a second screw or pin arranged radially in relation to the screw already available in the front side of the heel, thus remaining hidden under the shoe, this second screw the central, heel-fastening screw from becoming accidentally loose. The shoe also comprises a flange with an inner screw thread incorporated into the insole by pressing in such a way that screw positioning imperfections can be corrected by rotating the flange.
In the related Prior Art, patent US3646497 already claimed "Shoe with interchangeable heels" in 1972. The subsequent patent US4610100 (1986, therefore expired) opened the way to several new inventions in this field. Until 2016 when thanks to Mr. Stiefelman' s genius, a German company, Mime et moi, put shoes with five interchangeable heels in the market. Now their video is "viral" on the web (here above)!
Another brand producing this kind of shoes is Tanya Heath who seems combining luxury fashion design with multi-heels. She provides a mechanism ( based on US7954256 (2011) and US20130067770 (2013) ) typified by clicking the new heel on the sole of the shoe. The related clicking sound means a complicated gimmick "dimensioned to be pressed 5000 times and that you are using a very robust mechanical system". In her website you may find different kind of heels, in terms of height, material, design and pattern. Parisian style never disappoints!
A further brand in this field is Mestrae, from Malaysia. In its website you may read as follows:
The road to Mestrae started from humble beginnings, it came from wanting to fulfill the needs and wants of the everyday woman, the mothers, the corporate climbers, the professional, the chef, the sisters and daughters, the modern woman who tries to do it all.
This is to remark the very aim for which this kind of interchangeable heels-shoes were born, as I mentioned at the beginning of this post. It's quite pretty to me to read in this Malaysian website about the company's efforts to balance between technology and style setting in footwear.
At Mestrae, we look forward to being trend setters and to continuously be creative and innovative in the world of fashion and technology.
It sounds familiar to me since my last posts regard just this futuristic relationship, aka "Engineering Footwear Industry". Whatever is the brand of your interchangeable heels, I hope you'll agree with me in including all these among the so-called "Smart Shoes" in terms of comfort.
In my home-country (Italy) they're still to be appreciated. I really believe in their potential and hope they'll reach the market success they deserve - for the good of our poor feet!
This is my first post entirely focused on men fashion footwear. I think this website must regard footwear both for men and women, according to my overall interest in this sector.
During those of the above listed dates just ended some fashion designers showed new and innovative concepts of footwear for men. Engineering Fashion Industry (not only footwear) now boasts Virgil Abloh who put LED on coats during Pitti Uomo catwalk (theme: immigration from Ghana).
Innovation in footwear arrived in PFWM thanks to the always-up-to-date brand Salvatore Ferragamo which "inhaled" the stage. The new SF Footwear Design Director, Paul Andrew, "brings finesse to feet" (Vogue). Already in the last NYFW he announced the new line of innovative sneakers for men to be showed during PFWM 2017. The new collection Salvatore Ferragamo Men SS2018 by Mr. Andrew so shown in Paris titled him as the "Accessory Designer of the Year" (CFDA's awards). This British-born and New York-based designer provides a new concept of "classic/sport men shoes". He declared to the Vogue journalist Suzy Menkes:
Men Footwear SS2018, Salvatore Ferragamo.
“We totally revolutionised the measurements and the fit with almost every shoe that is in the collection, changing the length of the arch and the volume of the toe box. And one of the most important things was that I added to every single shoe a memory foam, so that it actually cups around the ball of your foot.”
First SS2018 footwear trend. The new shoes by Mr. Andrew have got vivid colors, traditional funnel heels and shiny leather straps. The very innovative SF item in heels regards the inspiration to the same process as for car finish (e.d. super-matte-black effect borrowed from the surface treatment of Mercedes cars). Moreover, modern SF man can wear tech-knit sneakers and malleable ankle boots, as inspired to Japanese geishas. Vogue already nominated him as the "21st-century’s king of shoes".
Second SS2018 footwear trend. In addition to Salvatore Ferragamo, many shoe designers, above all Giuseppe Zanotti, welcome the huge advantages by 3D printing to leather shoes for their Men Footwear SS2018 Collections. In other words, 3D printed leather (e.g. crocodile pattern) will be one of the best SS2018 trends, men!
Third SS2018 footwear trend. According to Browns’ menswear buyer Lee Goldup, sneakers will still be another footwear trend in Summer Spring 2018. In particularly, the so-called "slip-on socks" updates the current concept of "sneakers" even for men. This trend is already on the ways of Milan thanks to some IT-boys, like GCDS and Marcelo Burlon’s County of Milan.
Fourth SS2018 footwear trend. Bicolor is the keyword. Church's, Bikkembergs, Tod's and Emporio Armani are just some examples suggesting this trend on their Pitti Uomo runways. If possible, combined with high-fine leather both for elegant and sport shoes.
Fifth SS2018 footwear trend. Mocassins. Yes, they're back once again! This classy and comfortable evergreen item in Men Fashion will walk streets again next sunny season. This is what brands like Tod's (ofc!) and Jimmy Choo, above all, promote next year. Personally I like this chic and not-easy-to-fit men shoe a lot, both for men and for women. Mocassins can give a classy touch to any outfit.
Alberto Guardiani, Men Footwear SS2018[/caption]
Emerging Brands. SS2018 runways at Pitti Uomo and MFWM introduced some new interesting shoe designers. Many of them focused on sport men with an high-tech outfit. To me some of the most promising ones are the following:
Filippo Fiora and Filippo Cirulli - working for Edhèn Milano and now lunching their own brand called "3F" ("the threef") - suggested "brightly hued monk strap loafers" characterised by sleeker and more elongated shapes (FootwearNews.com). These remind me to jazz Époque adding the trending colors for stylish dandy. Nevertheless the signature of these emerging shoe designers is the Brera loafer, between Italian and English styles.
Marcelo Burlon Men Footwear line fully inspires to sporty chic '90s skaters shoes/slippers as well as neoprene sneaker boots.
Diego Vanassibaradesigns men footwear characterised by brogues and sneakers layered with apron-style overlays and mosaics. To the Mini runway at Pitti Uomo he provided elegant men shoes with diamond-shape motif and laster-cut perforations. Keep in mind his name because he's going to collaborate with Yoox for his unisex collection at PFWM in September.
VFTS suggests a new concept of sneakers as inspired to architecture and stylish streetstyle. The innovation of this brand regards the use of new materials: calf leather and raw-edged suede, with strong geometric shapes, hand-painted edges, shock absorbers and a neoprene inner sock.
Conclusion. Spring Summer 2018 is going to be a season of exaggerate fashion footwear both for men and for women. Extremes, colors, contrast and surprise are the coming keywords. Nature and technology; classic and sporty; beauty and performance; roughness and luster. "Externally shoes are made out of soft suede and a classic shape, while the inside features technical high-performance meshes" in the name of techno-futurism. (FotoShoeMagazine.com)
Just few deserved words about.
Goodbye Carla.
It seems Angels are going to be quite glamour this year! Laura Biagiotti left us just last month. Now it's the turn of Carla Fendi (1933), the fourth in the line of five sisters leading the stylish Fendi Maison. Carla was the honorable chair of this brand (after 2001 acquisition of the brand by LVMH, France) as well as founder of Fondazione Carla Fendi (2007) to support arts and social commitments. Thanks to her efforts in public relations, particularly with US market, the "double-f" succeeded worldwide. Her friendship with Karl Lagerfeld signed the discovery of this talented and glamorous fashion designer. She left a big "glamorous" heritage to fashion industry and arts.
High-Tech" is the new key-word. Engineering developments are fastly running beyond our mind capabilities. Fashion footwear industry seems willing to join this trend! In one of my most succesfull posts (3D Printed Shoes) I wrote about the innovative 3D printing machines in footwear. It was just the beginning!
During the last fall season you might have got chance to meet people wearing footwear with lights. These are special sneakers "switching on/off" balancing with your walk. In a first time I was convinced this was just "field" for children (like that footwear with wheels which invaded the fashion kids market few time ago). With my huge surprise I have then been meeting adults, boys and girls, donning lights on their feet. This made me quite wondering about the original brand, how it works, any linked patent, etc. Well, here below what I've discovered so far and, starting from this, new developments about high-tech sneakers!
First, this "firefly" footwear works thanks to a LED system installed on its heels. Patent US 9,526,294, B2 (Applicant: Troy Larsen, US; Date: Dec. 27, 2016) regards "Footwear with insertable lighting assemby", having
"a sole structure with a cushion layer wherein a lighting assembly, having a switch, a power source, and at least one light source or LED, can be inserted and attached into the sole structure to provide external illumination from the footwear. The cushion layer exhibits a means for transmitting light from the lighting assembly secured within to the exterior of the footwear, the means for transmitting light can take the form of a polymeric material of at least partial transparency, in some cases having a fluid enclosed within or the form of a plurality of light transmission channels."
This system seems taking advantage from a previous patent on the same topic: US 3,008,038 (Date: Nov. 7, 1961; Applicant: M.L. Dickens) titled "Shoe with electric bulb providing illumination". Particularly, this old invention focused on people walking in darkness "or in dimly lighted areas" so to avoid any injury. It was just the beginning of a new footwear industry branch aiming to support new needs by Millenial customers.
Fashion industry, therefore, is trying to adopt new high-tech innovations to improve footwear, in terms of comfort, safety, responsability and health (aka, "smart shoes"). I may define this interesting branch as "Engineering Footwear Industry" (EFI). To what concern "responsible" shoes, I would like to suggest you to read my post 1.4.
If LED system was inititially installed on the soil of footwear to "switch on" the way to nightly runners, I've just discovered another innovative concept of sneakers involving the modern need to always connect to world.
Yes, readers! Cloud-connected sneakers are already in the market! In particular, these special shoes, as a result of collaboration among Fujitsu, SnowRobin and two universities in Japan, "use in-built sensors to track your data and create 'walking experiences' and games for the wearer." In the article by wearable.com Conor Allison writes that their tech is currently tested in lab, while already practical experiments are ongoing (aka PA-League Walk) to support professional Japanese baseball team.
Further inputs by this new tech regards the chance to simply track step data linked to a proper app on your mobile. See, you don't need to be a professional athlete to enjoy it. It seems not just a game. Many companies are already offering their option about "smart shoes".
Digitsole seems the first sneaker capable to connect, interact and shock absorb via smartphone.
The NIKE Patent n. US 9, 656, 146 B2 titled "Athletic Performance Sensing and/or Tracking System and Methods" (May 23, 2017) seems running towards this way by claiming a method linked to a user device receving data by its performance.
According to the above mentioned article by C.Allison nobody has already explored "the gaming element" to these smart shoes. I think it's just matter of time!
My concept of "Smart Shoes" now goes far beyond cloud/LED devices. Shoe industry seems quite fascinated by high-tech. I suggest you another article at this regard by Techflier.com. Recently I could even speak about a "wedding" between a branch of this fashion industry and engineers.
In the market you may even find pumps with a color-changeable heel (as, ofc, linked to a proper app in your mobile) by Volvorii. If you're a ballet dancer, like me, you may be even more addicted to the futuristic ballet slippers (aka, E-Trace Ballet Shoes) enabling to capture any dancer's foot movement and trasform it into vibrant, multicolor and digital drawings on your smartphone.
Inventors have already moved far beyond! Can you think about a shoe to tip/tap/type your friends via whatsapp! It's just here, dears, and its name is Dorothy. Never imaged shoes connecting with Google Map? The answer is "Sneakairs"!
After reading this post, can you guess what glamorous step forwards the EFI is making just now? This topic is "thrilling" my curiousity more and more. I'll keep you posted on any further futuristic step by this fashion branch. Stay tuned.
Did you hear about one of the last Summer trends: rainbow? My favourite season is almost here. To me this means colors! I think that's why rainbow is one of the most successful trends during the coming hot months. Ofc, troughout decades it has meant peace, pride, and joy (we'll go deep on this later on). No matter what's your opinion about, this pattern will involve you soon!
As a fish in the river, I would like to let this trend lead me during the coming days on the beach, in a party at a chalet, and (why not?) in the city. Colors, as known, have got a positive power on human beings. They're able to change your vibe. If you're wearing something colorful your reflection in a mirror can make you smile - even during a bad day! Well, I want this trend gets involved me even more this year!
Let me focus now on rainbow footwear. This amazing "fever" has infected many excellent shoe designers. In this post I'm listing few of them (my favourite ones).
This shoe designer, as we've seen in post 1.3 has got a special preference for colors in her style. You may get an embarassing wealth of options!I chose this one. Moreover, the jelly t-strap sandal ( from '90s) is another Summer trend 2017!
This is one of my favourite shoe designers ever - as my followers know well.
As already mentioned at the begging of this post, "rainbow" has got many symbolic meanings dealing, particularly, with some serious ju-ju in myth and culture. It also stands for powerful stuff like: creation, divinity, good luck, duality and liminal spaces.
In her blog, Avia Venefica analyses the different symbolic meanings rainbow gets across the Globe in many different cultures and their wisdoms. It may be reproduced as a mythological Chinese dragon interceeding on behalf of human beings; as the Norse's Bifrost (bridge to the land of gods, aka Asgard); rather than a Navajo's multi-colored serpent to be ridden by young braves as initiation to the Great Spirit. Rainbow has been also linked to feminine divinity meaning prosperity, fertility, magic and provision, as for Celtics. I truly recommend to read her post to go through this topic.
"More research into rainbow meanings made me realize there's a lot more to them than just glittery symbols adorning juvenile tubes of strawberry flavored lip gloss." [...] "One of the most intense references to the rainbow is found in Hindu and Buddhist Tantra. Apparently, those who have surpassed their earthly ties are in a position to achieve the highest meditative state, and experience the "rainbow body". This has also been described as a "body of light" when ultimate ascension has been reached. The rainbow body phenomenon is an ultimate oneness, and typically happens at the time of death." (What'sYourSign.com)
When you decide to wear any rainbow pattern, even on your feet, don't be suprised then about the positive energy this will give you!
More rainbow shoes in this post by Tuesday Shoesday. Enjoy your rainbow Summer! Leave me your like and your comment to contribute in improving this website. Follow me further on the main Social Networks!
Three days ago Mrs. Laura Biagiotti left us all. Another glamorous
fashion designer reaching Mr. Versace in clothing angels. I'm Italian,
this post is more than deserved.
She was one of the modern Italian
fashion artists (the so-called "Cashmire Queen" or the "White Lady")
who contributed to the huge success of the "made-in-Italy". Her work in
the fashion industry started when she was very young at her mother's
atelier in Rome. Her mother, indeed, designed the Alitalia uniforms in
1964.
It's just in 1972 when Laura acquired MacPershon factory in
Pisa that she really brought herself on the international fashion
"balcony". She showed her interest in white, semplicity and innovative
shapes of cashmere by putting in place runways in China (the first
Italian fashion designer doing so) (1988), Russia (1995) and Egypt
(1998).
Today her maison called "The House of Biagiotti" in Rome,
is one of the largest fashion houses in Italy. In 2015 the brand
celebrated its 50 birthday setting a new partnership with Anegelini in
producing and distributing, which followed the previous one with
Protecter and Gamble. At the end of that year these were the data
available on the brand: 16 licenses, 37 male and female collections and
21 workers.
Laura Biagiotti was able to build in parallel two
"empires": one in fashion, as worldwide know, and the other one about
real estate businesses, particularly castles (e.g. Castello Marco di
Simone di Guidonia, Rome).
At the finance perspective, few data
are available: in 2015 Biagiotti Group's turnover was 4,9 billion euros
for a whole yearly business about 90 billion ones.
The White Lady
joined actively the fashion industry revolution in '80s and '90s
providing the made-in-Italy the deserved rank closed to the main French
maisons. Many Italian celebrities (e.g. Nancy Brilli, Carla Fracci and
Natasha Stefanenko) weared her masterpieces, on red carpets as well as
on films. She got many awards, above all:
1992, Woman of the Year, NYC (US);
1995, Kinght of Labour by Italian President O.L.Scalfaro;
2001, Prix Femmes d' Europe;
2002,
Marisia Bellisario Awards and Lifetime Achievement Award, National
Council of Italian Fashion. Meanwhile, the Italian post office issued a
41 EUR cent stamp with her name;
2004, Laura Biagiotti wrote the
chapter about Fashion in the Treccani Encyclopedia. Meanwhile, she got
the Lupa Capitolina award by the Rome Mayor, V. Veltroni;
2007, Crystal Lion Lifetime Achievemnet - Venice Casino Award
2008, Leonardo Award by the Italian President G. Napolitano.
2011, the Marco Polo award by Chinese government and the America Award of the ITA-USA Foundation.
Recently
it seems her brand was slowly hiddening on the international arena,
compared with its huge success during few decades before. Her
collections in net-a-porter became accessible to mass, meaning: cheaper,
increased sales and sometimes lower quality than during '80s. My
opinion is that the brand was then suffering the strong Chinese
competition (even in Tuscany where the italian - Chinese textile
district is).
Today her daughter, Lavinia Biagiotti Cigna, already
side by side with her mother during the last runways and sitting in the
National Council of Italian Fashion, will lead the brand to the future.
I
hope the new generation will give LB brand back the old fame
re-investing in quality and innovation (as the Cashmire Queen did during
her whole life).
We may say this is one of the best years for Italian shoe lovers
(like me)! Indeed, since its beginning exhibitions about stunning shoe
designers have been managed throughout the "Boot" (as we, as Italians,
usually call our peninsula 'cause of its shape).
In this post I
would like to post the main events you should not miss if you are
planning to visit my Country during the coming 7 months!
Ofc, I couldn't miss Manolo Blahnìk in Palazzo Morando (Milan) on which I wrote post #07 . Unfortunately this exhibition lasted few weeks between March and April. You can still have a virtual tour thanks to the related video on my YouTube Channel.
On May 13 at the Venice Biennale a special area (Padiglione Italia)
opened as focused on luxury Fashion Brands, among which Renè Caovilla
(Padiglione Venezia) ( pic here above), selected as representative of
made-in-Italy footwear. The Venice-based brand particularly invested on
luxury footwear making all women dream. The exhibition will last until
Nov 26. Tickets are a bit over the standard range (20 EUR) due to the
fact you're supposed to visit the whole event. By surfing on the web you
can easily find articles and videos already about this, btw. It may be
even a good chance to visit the Othello's city while drinking a Spritz
"Al Merca" in a "bacareto" closed to Canal Grande or on Ponte Vecchio.
Moreover, few days ago Salvatore Ferragamo Museum
in Florence opened a new "vintage" exhibition inspired to his '20s
collection. This shoe designer weared the feet of some Icons, like
Marylin Monroe and Audrey Hepburn (here on the left with Mr. Ferragamo
himself). This brand dictated footwear trends, particularly, between
'20s and '60s. The exhibition will last almost for a whole year - you
have time to arrange it! Ticket price: 6 EUR. You could get chance to
visit Gucci and Pitto Palaces, as well. If you like wine, take time to
drink a glass of Chianti on the Rinascente terrace during the sunset.
So
far that's all! Pin these in your agenda! I'm already planning my
visits to the last two. I'm confident they'll make my eyes bright once
again, as it was with Manolo.
We're quite aware of thinking about Fashion Firms as
business-oriented which means profit-oriented - no matter what! We often
hear about those brands taking advantage from child-labour rather than
new shapes of slaveness, or without considering enviromental risks at
all. Since the best Solidariety silently walks underground with humilty
beyond-human kindness, we know just a bit about those ones, instead,
working for a better world. In this post I would like to mention some of
them, giving them somehow space they deserve in this whispered "ant"
work.
As
Italian Shoe Blogger I must start with Tod's which supported San
Patrignano Community (Italy) in producing leather bags (more details
here: http://bit.ly/2pB5dns). SanPa,
as commonly known, is a recovery community welcoming people suffering
drug addiction and marginalization. It gives them a "second chance" in
life by a rehabilitation programme (based on love). In this way Tod's
gives opportunity to some of SanPa guests to get into
labour and business markets.
Moving to the Netherlands, Vimpex International Footwear group got the Dutch Royal Warrant award in 2014, above all, for its particular committment to improve employment conditions.
TOMS
Founder, Blake Mycoskie (in the pic here above), started his career in Shoe Business in 2014
inspired by necessity of children growing up without shoes. Today the
company is in over 70 Countries giving over 60 million pairs of shoes to
children worldwide. This Shoe Firm is today committed also on clean
water, safer birth and employment.
On the side of Child-friendly shoes (according to India Committee of the Netherlands), 19 companies, among which the 12 ETI members such as H&M, Primark, Inditex, Marks & Spencer, Next, TESCO, Sainsbury joined the Leather Working Group and MVO Nederland, to
face adverse human rights and environmental impacts in their supply
chain (data as up to 20 March 2017). Moreover, few days ago (12 May
2017) the Indian shoe company P A Footwear Ltd achieved the Gold Medal Award by Leather Working Group, above mentioned.
We
can get a few news about this whispering virtuous trend. Such approach
to solidal shoe business can as absurd (?) spread profits towards
more-conscious consumers worldwide. Social Networks, particularly
Twitter, show how people are increasingly demanding "responsible" products - within fashion industry, too. An
example was the huge campaign boycotting Nike Child-labour production in
Asia few years ago.
Mother's Day is coming! I would like to wish Her all the best by some shoe designers and their Mom and daughter matching shoes.
I
was inspired by Sophia Webster (pic here below) and her collection for
Moms and their little princesses. I think this was also a very smart
marketing insight by this brand: the cute combo Mom-daughter is an
increasing trend worldwide (even among celebrities!) and the best chance
is indeed this celebration.
Lady
Webster was not the only shoe designer thinking about wearing "family"
feet. Some of my favourite brands had the same idea: Valentino (here
below) and Christian Louboutin - to mention just two.
From the stunning heels to casual footwear (by Converse, Vans and Lamberjack, e.g.) and summer sandals (by Etsy).
Many shoe designers are surfing on this "parental" trend. I must say
"parental" because it regards parents, in general: both moms and dads
(particularly sport brands, like Adidas and Nike).
When
I was a child I used to play with my Mom's shoes. Who didn't? I could
even not image my feelings in case of such a shoe-combo with her. Now as
a young woman I'm moving rather on Mom's side ( it's not time for me,
yet).
Although my Mom and I had no chance to wear matching shoes
during my childhood, nowadays I often don one of her pair of shoes I
used to admire as a child (those few ones for which I could reach the
right size, ofc). She was a shoe-lover more than me, jelously preserving
vintage Chanels or Colettes in a big wardrobe today matching with my
increasing footwear collection there inside, as well (poor Daddy!).
I
didn't got from her just some of her glamorous shoes. I got her bravery
as self-made-woman, her resilience to life-challenges, as well as her
moody and strength. It's not necessary wearing matching shoes with your
Mom to resemble her. You'll do in any case and anyhow!
....I'm pretty sure I will wear matching shoes with my future daughter ( if any), btw.
I was
planning to write my coming post about mules as mentioned in some previous
posts. Recently I read many interesting articles at this regard. I then decided
to focus my attention on one of the very trending topics in Footwear business
which is increasing my curiosity about: 3D printing shoes. I’m sure this post
will grow up your interest in new developments of footwear industry. I
apologize in advance for its necessary length.
Before going
deep on the “hot topic” of this post, I would like to have a look at how traditionally
shoe factories work. You can find many articles, posts and videos about this
topic. Obviously I made the whole process quite easier than what’s in reality
in order to facilitate understanding.
1. STEP: DESIGN
As everything to
plan, the very first phase is to “invent” something. Shoe designers put their
idea on a paper. I love this step meaning the creativity of these artists and
the very birth of a shoe. I remember when I had the chance to go into a shoe design
office: all those shoe draftings on the walls, those desks with pens and
pencils, samples, etc. It was like being in the brain of the factory itself.
2. STEP: PROTOTYPE
Once bosses
approved the project drawn by the shoe designer and before starting producing
thousands and thousands of that shoe, the drawing passes to the production unit
aimed to make a Prototype. Here, artisans use their equipment and knowledge together
with proper machines which nowadays have made their work easier. However, the very first tool is a shoe-custom
last from wood or plastic. Artisans use it to model leather and other materials
to make shoes. In a shoe factory you may find billion of these shoe-customs
according to volume of production, sizes, heel-weights, genre models. Once
artisans made the prototype both by their own hands and some machine help, this
item has to pass over the new approval by bosses and designers before starting
the subsequent phase.
3. STEP: PRODUCTION
Let’s assume
Prototype has been approved. Now it’s time to produce thousands of it to put in
the market (meaning, first, figuring new runways and events out where to
promote it). In this step machines support artisans in their daily work to
increase production, quality and efficiency. I called this phase as “executive”
due to the workings among colors, materials, men and machines, customs, heels, and
further details.
Consider how
crucial are every of these steps, particularly in terms of profit, work,
intellectual property, production amounts, therefore costs and investments.
What 3D machines “rub out” regards the third step (perhaps the second one, as
well). This means rubbing out the related costs. Anyhow, how do 3D
shoe-machines work?
Basically, a 3D printing machine allows to
create a 3D model with a CAD program, then a printable file is used to create a
layer design which is printed afterwards. This machine build things “by depositing
material, typically plastic or metal, layer by layer, until the prototype or
final product is finished” (wired.com).
This new technology seems matching with new
consumers’ preferences. Shoes are tailored for each person’s unique feet.
Particularly for wide or thick feet is hard to find a suitable pair of shoes,
due to the common sizing system is based on half-integer measurements (6, 6.5,
7, 7.5, etc.). 3D Printing solves all this. Instead of trying many pair of
shoes box by box this technology allows the computer to “create an accurate 3D
model of the person’s feet”. This information combined with further costumer’s
details, such as weight, height, activities which the shoes is engaged for.
After inputting all these data, the costumer must just wait for printing.
An increasing number of footwear companies is now using 3D printing
technology (above all, Nike, Feetz, United Nude, Adidas, New Balance and Under
Armour) to give customers their very personalized pair of shoes, made in store
or on the spot.Early this new
technology was used just for rapid prototyping (wired.com).
In the last twenty years the rapid advances
of the so called “3Digital Accelerators” (processing power, storage and
bandwidth) has developed this 3D printing as “a tool for manufacturing
end-products, such as shoes, jewelry, and dresses (within fashion business). As
seen above this technology can be particularly useful for therapeutic
applications. This is the case, for example, of SOLS Systems which makes
orthotic shoes to alleviate foot pain and improve comfort for customers. Additionally,
Nike has introduced its new Nike Vapor Ultimate Cleat American football boot,
which combines 3D knitting and 3D shoe printing to give players an athletic
shoe that delivers both lightweight speed and strength.
Although the majority
of shoes sold nowadays are traditionally-made, the 3D technology is globally
advancing quickly on the international market according to its “add values”:
“On-demand, anytime, anywhere, by anyone manufacturing.” (wired.com)
As for any innovation even for 3D printing there
are already some objections. Some experts in footwear production in confirming the advantages by this tech as
above listed use btw the cellphone metaphore to describe this new tech: “the
2016’s designs are similar to brick cellphone of yesteryear which was laborious
and cucumbersome.”(highsnobiety.com).
An example of very receptive shoe designer, the
Italian Cristina Fraceschini, who soon became a Shapeways designer. Her
peculiarity is the almost-sculpture heel as an intricate 3D printed nylon
cover, combining metallic finish onto a plastic through high product pressure.
(3DPrintingIndustry.com). Another advantage highlighted by this female
shoe-designers by Fermo (Italy) regards the production amount: with 3D printing
it’s possible to produce even one unique shoe – which was impossible in the
past. An immediate result of this open-mindness by Cristina is that a lot of
her shoes are exhibited in the contemporary section of Fermo’s Footwear
Museum).
This enthusiastic shoe designer
declared: “I love playing and experimenting with materials and I believe that
the Italian shoe industry needs to get on board and explore with next
generation designs. It is time to take Italian shoe making traditions and creativity
into the future of manufacturing.”
The 3D printing has been just discovered. We can
already note its pros and cons. Of course it will arise new issues, above all about
the future of the traditional footwear market as well as new levels of intellectual
property rights protection. My opinion is that we have still to discover a lot
about 3D printing. Although traditional factories must be preserved we could
deeply know and use potential advantages related to a balance between tradition
and innovation in footwear production. The example of Cristina Franceschini may
contribute in this direction.
Do you remember Carrie Bradshaw? The women' s hero fighting in love with Mr.Big? Well, it seems this character never leaves one of my favourite actresses I met for the first time in Hocus Pocus movie: Sarah Jessica Parker.
