0.8 - Block Heels Trend SS2017

Fashion Community passed through Mercedes Benz - Moscow FW last week, too. Spring started few days ago. Sun is coming to warm our hearts. We're almost up to renew our wardrobe for the usual season cover where colors lead our outfits. In this context I would like to briefly pause on one of Spring Footwear Trends as suggested by all the Fashion Weeks so far: the so called "block-heel". Weather you're wearing a sandal or a pumps rather than a pair of boots this is one of last trends I like the most. As heritage of 90's mixed with comfort and a bit of extravagance, the "block-heel" has already conquired runways in NYC, London, Paris and Moscow. No doubts in its success in the next Rome Fashion Week early in April, too! 

This trend, indeed, started few years ago: already in 2014 Summer we could donned a pair of such a comfortable sandals! This year heels over 5inches or higher are fully banned. Kirschenbaum notes: "Women nowadays are way more focused on comfort and practicality (and value investing in a shoe that is both stylish and comfortable enough to walk or commute in) which is why there has been such an increase in demand for sneakers and low block-heels."(Elle) 

Brand-new is the "rounded" version of block-heel: geometry leads our coming sunny season mixing pastel and main colors, shiny with metallic items embellishing the shoe, lace-up/ bound/ mule pattern. We could admire those items throughout runways by, above all, Nicholas Kirkwood, Ted Baker, Sam Edelman, Lanvin, Stella McCartney, Louis Vuitton, Hermes, Celine, Balenciaga, Dries Van Noten, Jaquemus, Missoni, Marni, D&G, Marques' Almeida and Mariana Jungman.

Focus on the lace-up shoes by Nicholas Kirkwood ( $1,130) as here on the right: a sample of this trend. This triangular basis-prism heel was patented under US D728,211S in May 2015. This stacked sandals sums up all the requirements above mentioned for a glamourous SS2017:

• lace-up
• colors (main ones, in particular)
• block-heels
• under 5 inches high (1.5")

Interesting to read also the article in StyleCaster.com, to whom is wondering how to combine this footwear trend for a daily outfit.
Enjoy your comfortable Spring!

Sources: InStyle.com, Vogue.com,  Nicholas Kirkwood

0.7 - Manolo Blahnìk's Art

From 26th January to 9th April in Morando Palace, Milan (Italy) it is arranged an exhibition of Manolo Blahnìk's shoes titled "The Art of Shoes". I was there last weekend. It was an amazing "dive" in his art within a delicious framework as in this eighteenth-century building next to Via Montenapoleone in Milan. Luckily it was allowed to make pics so I could make some. In this exhibition: 212 shoe models and 80 drawings signed by the stylist in its 45 years of activity. You can watch the full video on my visit there by my YouTube Channel.

The exhibition is divided into six sections: in the first one, footwear dedicated to historical and contemporary characters that inspired the designer (from Alexander the Great to Brigitte Bardot until Anna Piaggi, lead editor of Vogue Italy). After an excursus on the materials used by Blahnik, the exhibition examines his passion for art and architecture before passing into the fourth section about selection of the most imaginative models of the designer. Here you'll find shoes he designed to queen Marie-Antoinette movie (2006) (starring Kirsten Dust). The fifth section is devoted to the love of Blahnik for nature, while in the last section there are showed models inspired by Spain, Italy, Africa, Russia, England and Japan.

Before starting our virtual itinerary, let me introduce this famous shoes-designer.

Manolo Blahnìk with "Madrid" pumps (2017) on his shoulder.

Manuel "Manolo" Blahnik Rodríguez (hereinafter, also as "MB") is a Spanish fashion designer (1942) founding his eponymous high-end shoe brand. His Czech father's family owned a pharmaceutical firm in Prague while his mother's family owned a banana plantation in Santa Cruz de la Palma (Spain). He was homeschooled during his childhood until he started studying Diplomacy (Politics and Law) in Switzerland. During that time he became increasingly interested in Literature and Architecture. In 1965 he got his degree in this last field and then moved to Paris to study Art at the École des Beaux-Arts and Stage Set Design at the Louvre Art School. 

We'll see throughout the above mentioned exhibition how these studies of him have influenced his shoes design. His career in fashion industry jumped up when he started working as a buyer for a fashion boutique in London called "Zapata" ("shoe" in Spanish). At the same time he was writing for L'Uomo Vogue (and Italian men's version of Vogue). It is just in 1978 when Ossie Clark invited him to create shoes for his runway show that " Manolo Blahnìk", as worldwide known, was born. This let him work for other major footwear brands, such as Jean Muir and Zandra Rhodes. With a loan of £2,000 Manolo acquired Zapata so to open his own boutique. 

In two years he became the second man on the cover of UK Vogue (after Helmut Berger). In 1977 his brand "bursted into" US market through Bloomingdales and opened his first boutique there. His flagship store is still in Old Church Street in the fashionable Chelsea district of London. By this biography it is surprising how this very talented designer has never learnt how to make shoes in school. Rather he enhanced his skills on this by working in- and visiting shoes factories, by talking with fashion producers and taylors. He started by focusing on men footwear and then he became one of the most famous female shoes designers in the world.

Like any great couturier, MB’s shoe style is kept to small exclusive production numbers and his signature is easily recognizable. His classic Stiletto Heels are the followings: BB Pump; Hangisi Pump; Swan Pump; Campari Pump; Chaos Sandal.

Now you're ready to start visiting the exhibition through the report I made last Saturday for you (further details on my new YouTube Channel, as already cited: Cinderella' Slipper). 

In welcoming visitors to this itinerary a big black wall signed by Manolo Blahnìk himself (first pic here above) where three cubes showcases shield beautiful heels of his brand. The consequent astonishment in your mind probably let you be confused in how to procede. No problem! Whether you choose to turn on the right or on the left of this black wall beautiful shoes and their related drawings are waiting for you to be admired. 

Let turn on the right, as above mentioned the first section of the exhibition regards footwear dedicated to historical and contemporary characters that inspired the designer (from Alexander the Great to Brigitte Bardot until Anna Piaggi, lead editor of Vogue Italy). Here below I would like to mention just few samples of the main shoes fascinating me the most then.

In the early rooms we can admire heels with fur, lace-up, and sicilian corals. In Pic1, "Permin" pumps (2011-2012 - suede and fur shoes). Moving to subsequent rooms showcases shield multicolor leather shoes from 70's till now, ankle-boots as well as crazy neon fischerman-boots (resulting by a collaboration with Vetements), denim-country boots, bone bottoms and further fringes.

A couple of rooms later there's a glamorous heel waiting for your eyes in a showcase among eleven shoes in satin. It's "Pacrabor" ( a gold brocade sandal with hand embroidery made in 2015 - Pic2). I love this color comb. Maybe that' s why they were like calling me at the end of that corridor!

Then, we can move through further showcases with pumps as from Disney fairytales ("Guagnione" pumps (2011-2012) and "Gonul" mule (2008) in gold-velvet-lilly-white satin). A curious jump into japanese culture then faces us on strange sandals inspired to Geishas in spotted pony with aluminium four pronged heels. This is "Jetta" (2011), indeed, Pic3. At the beginning I was quite wondering about its comfort. It was not one of my favourite but here it deserves special mention as much as it is so unique. Leave back the Japanese room to move to an exotic eastern room with floral-blu printed walls hosting "savage" shoes inspired to Africa and Russia with further leather, fringes, patched style, tartan, fur, army details. 

Then stop in one of my favourite rooms of this exhibition dedicated to SS2016 where flowers, fruits, trees, leaves and parfums welcome us in a fairy atmosphere. The fab "Clizia" boots are here (Pic4): mesh ankle-boots decorated with chiffon and vinyl flowers and glass beads. I loved this section where the panel explained that collection called "Nature", where a botanic flavour reminds viewer to Manolo Blanhìk childhood in Canary Islands and his fascination to " formal qualities of flowers".
The artist designed a shoe included in this collection called "Lagartija" (lizard - here on the right), "which is the result of this everlasting memory of his childhood". Nature world has been a perennial inspiring source for MB ever since his first collection made for the already mentioned Ossie Clark in 1972: a pair of shoes with featuring red suede cherries with ivy.

Subsequently, an entire room regards Marie-Antoinette movie, as already mentioned. Shoes in this room show his studies on that age to achieve results as performed in this  movie (Pic5 - "Tourzel", satin mule with crystal buckle which I love the color of): a TV at the end of this section shows some scenes from that film. 

Special mention to the physics-challenging heels in the subsequent sections show once more the abilities and studies of this artist in Architecture and Art: Pic6, "Armadillo" (1999) mule closed to "Plutania" (2012). His interest in nature comes back somehow anticipating the YSL pumps introduced during the last Paris Fashion Week by Anthony Vaccarello's Collection as topic of the previous post to this blog (0.6).

Let me end this post with the iconic "Hangisi" pumps performing in Sex&TheCity (here on the left): a made-in-Italy satin almond toe pump featuring Swarowski crystal buckle and a spin high heel. Sole: 100% cow leather. Lining: 100% kid leather. Heel measures 105mm. In this exhibition we'll find its pink version although we know it in blue as donned by Carrie Bradshaw (965,00$). 

About this iconic pumps, Manolo Blahnìk said "I always had a fondness for brilliant accessories, so we created a court shoe with this beautiful embellished buckle, which I found in Italy. The whole shoe was inspired by Napoleon I, Josephine and Pauline Bonaparte."
I can be very satisfied by such a beautiful exhibition on footwear design art by MB. It was like visiting neither a shoes factory nor a shop. It was somthing more! It was like falling into heaven to admire this jewelry and dreaming room after room while adrenaline was increasingly controlling my senses. A unique emotion every footwear-lover like me should feel!

sources: Manoloblahnik.com, Exhibition site, Wikipedia.

0.6 - No-heel pumps on PFW17 by YSL

In following Paris Fashion Week I bumped into Yves Saint Laurent FW17 runway. Shoes donned by the model Aviv Schneider then shocked me so much to write this post on its crazy innovation. 

We're already aware of YSL genius not-only applied on footwear. In London  this brand put charming pumps with its logo as heel ("Opium" pumps) on runways. Brand-new item during PFW17 is the no-heel pumps donned by models during YSL Collection by Anthony Vaccarello: "A pair of sleek black patent leather heels stepped out onto the runway without a traditional heel" (Vogue). It was minimalism winning as itself! 

Difficult footwear is nothing new. In 1993 already  Vivienne Weswood provided 9-inch-high platform-chopine heels. During these recent Fashion Weeks 2017 we enjoyed, above all, the disco-shaky heels by Marc Jacobs, as well as footwear by Iris Van Herpen and Maison Margelia. It's like brave designers conquering runways this year!

However, these new no-heel pumps designed by Vaccarello stroke me due to the fact I could not fully understand how they worked.
First, sentence on the bottom is almost unreadable to me. I do not know French so far: is it written "Kvuelle Moi" (not sure of this! It may be a graphic mistake instead of "Quelle Moi" = my own thing)

Secondly, my curiosity pushed me surfing on the web until I met a very interesting Vogue's post on the interview to a Physics Professor of Columbia's University (US) at this regard. To sum up the chair of Physics Prof. Michael Tuts wrote as follows: "Essentially, the foot exerts a force on the shank. That force is then transmitted to the flat heel, which, in turn, exerts a force on the ground at both ends of the flat heel. In that sense, it is not different from the regular shoe where the foot exerts a force on the shank and the shank exerts a force on the ground through the actual vertical heel and the toe, which is in contact with the ground." 

Moreover, to demonstrate how the Vaccarello's pumps can successfully work  otherwise getting wrong the physics scholar explained that "From the physics point of view, there is a safety concern, namely for the new shoe, the bottom piece has to extend past the point where most of the weight is pressing down on the shoe. If the bottom piece is too short, then you will tip over backward. If the bottom piece is long, then it will be stable." On the left here, the Prof. Tuts' diagram better explaining this mechanism.

By searching on USPO, EPO and WIPO databases I could not find any patent application concerning this item from YSL FW2017. This may suggest me that the French maison preferred not to promote the concerning patent request at the first step (I guess until the Vaccarello's runway above mentioned): the so called "authorization to prior public access" (which is different step by step Country by Country - as explained on WIPO website). This could explain why I could find neither any clue nor any drawing in any of the above mentioned proper websites so far. Otherwise I was not able to successfully check those databases: I will keep you posted, btw.

To complete this post let me briefly introduce Mr. Vaccarello, the italian-belgian fashion designer who, as above mentioned, debuted in YSL staff last year to substitute the fab designer, Hede Slimane, at this French maison. His debut refreshed the brand by renewing it as 80s'  kitsch and kaboodle. 

Prior then Anthony Vaccarello (1982) performed as Creative Director at Versus Versace, while designing his own eponymous line. Throughout his resume he boasted collaborations with another big fashion brand such as Fendi (under Karl Lagerfeld). He started studying law (one year) before enrolling at a Cambre in 2000 to study sculpture. This justifies his ability to express such arts on his collections, particularly on shoes as seen here. 

During Paris Fashion Week we could admire his arts at his second collection branded Yves Saint Laurent. I think he's going surprising us all runway by runway. His career in fashion industry is just at the beginnig!

Sources: Vogue.com , AnthonyVaccarello, Fashion Week, TFL

0.5 - Oscar 2017: Jewellery walking on the Red Carpet

Last night on the Oscar 2017 Red Carpet we saw some amazing heels donned by Hollywood stars. It's now time to focus on some of the heels walking on that Red Carpet.

Let's start with Teresa Palmer (2017 Oscar Nominee as Best Supporting Actress) in her Prada gown combined with babies by the London-based designer Sophia Webster in her last Bridal collection (pic here). A pair of satin silver sandals with crystal heels called "Effie".

Even during the 89th Academy Award Christian Louboutin weared feet by some of the stars (male and female) shining that night. That was the case, above all, of  Felicity Jones, Isabelle Huppert, Justin Timberlake, and David Oleyowo. Focusing on ladies, Felicity Jones (2011 Sundance Special Jury Price, Like Crazy) showed off her golden nude-sandals with butterflies details reminding me to Cinderella' slippers (the same as designed by Louboutin himself for Disney movie as analysed in post 0.1). Isabelle Huppert (2017 Oscar Nominee as Best Actress, Elle) donned Red Sole platforms fully covered up by that brighting silver dress branded Armani. 

Never miss Jimmy Choo whose jewelry walked on that charming carpet, as well. This was the case of Laura Dern (2012 Golden Globe Best Performance by an Actress in a Television Series - Comedy or Musical, Enlightened, and in 2009 as Best Performance by an Actress in a Supporting Role in a Series, Miniseries or Motion Picure Made for Television, Recount) , Leslie Mann (2014 CinemaCon Award as Comedy Star of the Year and 2007 Goden Schmoes as Best Supporting Actress of the Year, Knocked Up) and Privanka Chopr. 

Unfortunately as for Mrs. Huppert their fab gowns covered up their feet, as well, so we cannot show you any pic of the above mentioned shoes. On the contrary, Emma Stone (Best Actress winner, La La Land) during the After Oscar Party showed off her classy-chic Jimmy Choo pumps after her Givenchy hat-to-toe look during the Awards Cerimony.  Even Louise Rue proudly choosed Jimmy Choo in her minimal plum suede Holly 120 sandals (774 EUR).

It seems Stuart Weitzman may be nominated as another of the main footwear designers as donned on that red carpet, due to choices made by John Legend's wife Chrissy Teigen, Ginnifer Goodwin (SnowWhite in Once Upon a Time), Viola Davis (2017 Oscar as Best Supporting Actress, Fence) and Octavia Spencer (2017 Oscar Best Supporting Actress nominee, Hidden Figures).

Other celebrities weared designers such as Louis Vuitton ( Alicia Vikander, 2016 Oscar as Best Supporting Actress and 2016 Empire Awards as Best Actress, Danish Girl), Aquazzurra ( Brie Larson, 2016 Oscar as Best Performance by an Actress in a Leading Role, Room), Laurence Decade (Cynthia Erivo, musical artist performing in 2015 The Color Purple in Broadway which let her win Tony Award, Theatre World Award, Drama Desk Award and Outer Critics Circle Award), Vincent Camuto (Halle Berry, above all, 2002 Oscar as Best Actress in a Leading Role, Monter's Ball; in 2000 Golden Globe as Best Performance by an Actress in a Miniseries or Motion Picture Made for Television and Emmy Awards as Outstanding Lead Actress in a Miniseries or a Movie, Introducing Dorothy Dandridge;), Brian Atwood (Janelle Monae, singer and actress in Moonlight), Christian Lacroix ( Kirsten Dust, 2012 EDA Special Mention as Best Depiction of Nudity, Sexuality or Seduction and 2011 Cannes Award as Best Actress, Melancholia) and Calvin Klein (Naomie Harris, Moonlight Best Supporting Actress nominee, here in the pic). 

I'm particuarly fascinated by sunflower yellow be-jeweled CK heels donned by this last  actress above listed. We're quite aware of Naomie Harris' preference for colors even on her feet. To walk on the red carpet of 89th Academy Awards she choosed these "oh-so-elegant" crystal-embellished sandals as balancing between yellow suede and asymmetrical crystal straps from Calvin Klein Fall 2017 Collection (seen during last New York Fashion Week). 

These modern evening shoes sign Raf Simons' debut in Calvin Klein team with crystal motif on the right toe and on the left ankle. The Belgian fashion designer, indeed, began in furniture design. In 1995 launched his own menswear label before his collaborations with brands, such as the followings:

• Jil Sander in 2005 (as Creative Director);
• between 2008 and 2009: Fred Perry (feat. Linda Farrow about Sunglasses SS2008), Asics (FW 2009 footwear collection), Adidas ( 2009 plus his own limited-edition footwear collection FW 2013), Eastpack (as for Adidas this collaboration pursued for FW2013);
• Christian Dior in 2012 (as Art Director);
• Capsule Denim Collection and a co-designed FW2014 feat. artist Sterling Ruby in 2014 putting in place a joint-label with their names; 
• the Danish design and textile company Kvadrat in 2014 included in Raf Simons' FW 2015 Menswear Collection; and
• Calvin Klein itself starting from 2016 (as new chief creative officer). 

2017 Oscars let all of us dream once again with glamour, brightness, beauty, talent and love shine from the red carpet until its After Party. I deliberately choosed not to mention any info about movies, awards, gaff, performances and speeches. The purpose of this blog is focused on footwear and this is the content of this post, as well.

sources:  Oscar.org , footwear news.com